 Another California wine we felt you needed to taste, inspired by a recent tasting run in Sonoma (yes it was QUITE the trip). Much like Bedrock from a few weeks back, Lioco is one of the great champions of older California vineyards and making wines from these distinctive heritage sites. The winery even features Morgan and Chris at Bedrock as a grower on their web site, so very much kindred spirits. They also have a distinct affinity for the Carignan grape, which is heavily planted throughout Mediterranean France and the coastal regions of other European countries, but only appears sparingly in California. Lioco works with two older parcels in Mendocino planted just this side of World War II, one of which goes into their 'Sativa' red wine (one of the best examples of Carignan you will ever find), the other is exclusively farmed to make this Rose. The distinctly cool location of the site allows the grapes to hang longer and develop more flavor without losing any natural acidity, resulting in a wine full of explosive character. A classic Provencal salmon pink in the glass, loads of tart red fruit and strawberry leaf aromas pop from the get-go, refreshing with just a touch of herbal tones. The palate is impressively full for a rose, absolutely filled to the brim with tangy watermelon mixed with herbs and salinity. Not 'Jolly Rancher' watermelon, but the freshest watermelon salad you've ever had, the one that made you realize for the first time that watermelon could be in a savory dish. That's what's in the glass. This will go pound for pound with ANY Rose in this price point that Provence can throw at it, and will come out on top.
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 The Private Property brand is the second label for Caraccioli Cellars, a producer best known in the Santa Lucia Highlands for their fantastic sparkling wine creations. We first encountered them through their sparkling Rose (dollar for dollar one of the best sparklers you will find from anywhere), and felt we had to explore their still wines as well. Fruit for this Chardonnay comes from the same vineyards that supply the Chardonnay for their sparkling wine program and exemplifies the uniqueness of the Santa Lucia Highlands. It's one of California's coolest winegrowing climates as it funnels constant coastal winds from Monterrey Bay yet isn't as fog-bound which allows for steady ripening throughout the season. These sites make some of the state's most exciting Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays with a distinct sense of place, and it is very rare to find one able to show it off anywhere close to this price point. A bit atypical for Cali Chard in that they are very light on the use of oak and malolactic fermentation, so that those flavors do not obstruct the Highlands terroir, and you won't miss them in the slightest. Zesty aromas of lemon curd, white citrus and seashell, a truly coastal aroma. The palate is very similar and gets richer and creamier as it opens up. The bit of bottle age is significant to the complexity as the youthful acidity has softened into the background to allow a more natural buttery-ish texture to come in, yet you can still get the coastal and zesty fruits to come through. A Californian wine that doesn't taste like it could have come from anywhere and everywhere, this is distinct and delicious.
 In honor of a recent tasting we were able to have at Bedrock's Joseph Hooker House tasting room in Sonoma (which will bring us a bounty of new wines in the near future), we wanted to feature one of their most popular wines, and one of the more significant California Roses made. Bedrock and owner/winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson are one of the cornerstones of California's Historic Vineyard Society, dedicated to the preservation, recognition and education of the many family and multi-generational sites in the state. For most wineries, these vineyards would only be used to make the most intensive and highest dollar wines in their portfolio, but Bedrock works in these great sites to even their Rose. Bandol is one of the most famous sources for great Rose thanks to featuring the Mourvedre grape, and Bedrock uses an early 1900s vineyard of Mourvedre as this wine's backbone. The name is an homage to 'Lulu' Tempier, matriarch of the famous Bandol estate of the same name, and this wine aims to make her proud every vintage. Very Provencal style pale pink in the glass, the aromas are immediately unique, full of tart and tangy citrus, pink grapefruit, and layers of savory herbs. The palate is quickly mouthfilling with loads of mineral-driven white stone fruit, orange peel, and again that long lingering herbal tone that stays longer on the palate than anything. This is everything a serious Californian Rose should be about, and all things considered delivers it at a relative bargain.
 The region of Limoux in the Languedoc has a long history of making fine wines, but primarily in the sparkling wine genre. As far back as the 1500s the regional monastic orders were developing a better sparkling wine methodology using Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and the local Mauzac grape (before that Perignon fella refined it in what is now known as the Champagne region). Bubbles still reign supreme here, but the still wines are gaining note for great values that show much higher quality potential than the rest of the high volume Languedoc production. The cooling effects from the Pyrenees mountains into the Aude Valley (which is closer to Andorra than the Mediterranean Coast) gives the grapes a brighter structure, more natural acidity, and reigns in the alcohol to allow the wines a more Burgundian profile if preferred. Slightly smokey dark cherry and raspberry aromas with lots of herbal notes at first, getting redder fruits and more floral as it opens. The palate is very Burgundian with lots of tart red cherry and fine dusty tannins, lighter in weight but does get a little bit of extra fruit heft over time. This won't replace any 1er Cru wines on the shelf, but delivers basic Bourgogne level pleasures at a fraction of the price.
 This is one of the last Summertime choices for an Insider's Pick, perhaps giving you a chance to reflect on some exotic traveling you may have enjoyed. Many European travelers will at some point visit the Greek island of Santorini, where the Assyrtiko grape makes their signature wine. While there, however, you will pay 'tourist trap' prices, and that can carry over to the wines that get exported. This bottling comes from the mainland region of Lakonia on the southern peninsula, but the coastal vineyards for this excellent organic producer ensure that there is nothing lost here, other than some of the cost to you (which we're SURE you won't miss!). An immediate aromatic pop of fresh white flowers and peachy warm fruits, hinting a bit at Viognier or even Albarino if you're a Spanish wine fan, but with a cooling minerality and zesty citrus tones that takes away any tropical or sweeter sense. The palate has lots of tangy lime and weighty pear tones loaded with minerality and a touch of salinity to the finish. Though many will think of this as a warm weather wine, it has loads of food possibilities and enough in it to be well capable of being an option far into the cooler seasons. And it's so fairly priced you don't have to save it for a special occasion!
 Some of you may be say to yourselves 'What, two French Sauvignon Blancs in the Insider's Pick in back-to-back weeks? How repetitive!' Ah, but these are two VERY different expressions of the grape, about as diverse in style as you will find within the French borders. While the Boyer-De Bar last week was a unique and novel rendition, this is classic, quintessential Sauvignon Blanc, the kind that made the wines famous and desired throughout the world. The nose is all mineral-laden fruit and gunflint, everything you may have heard Pouilly-Fume described as (minus the cat-pee references). There is a little more quince and juicier white fruits as it opens up, but the nose never loses that cool flintiness. The palate is loaded with mouthwatering melon and pink grapefruit notes and a long tingly tart finish that shows off the refreshing side of this area. This is the type of wine that absolutely begs for a pairing with some of the Loire's local chevre, grilled vegetables or some shrimp.
 Despite what you may think, higher end wineries and winemakers usually don't want to make JUST expensive monumental wines all the time. In fact a lot of them do find a lot of satisfaction and accomplishment in taking their talents towards making good quality wines that can be more approachable to everyone. The Boyer name is well known to Burgundy fans from the Boyer-Martenot house in Meursault, now in its 4th generation under son Vincent. If you aren't a Burgundy fan, you probably aren't going to casually come across their work as even their 'basic' Bourgogne starts in the $50 range and goes up from there. Emmanuel De Bar is a long time friend of Vincent's from their time in winemaking school, with family owning vineyards in the Herault region of Languedoc. In 2018 they decided to combine forces and use Emmanuel's immaculate organically farmed vineyards from a less famous region, bring the fruit to Burgundy, and let Vincent apply the same care and methodology as he does to the Meursault wines in the same cellars. The results are impressive with a lineup of wines (including Pinot Noir and Chardonnay) that really over-deliver, and this Sauvignon Blanc is the stunner value of the group. Bright white fruit on the nose with a rich, almost creamy lemon note aided by the extra time on lees, this is definitely a deviation from the Loire style of Sauvignon Blanc, but doesn't lean into a tropical New Zealand style either. The palate is very rounded, probably the most Burgundian trait that's been layered in to this wine, with just as much acidity as their is skin tannin texture to bring out the drier fruits on the finish. With the exception of maybe drinkers that are full-on acidity freaks, we can't think of anyone that wouldn't be delighted by this wine for the price!
 When most consumers hear that a wine is 'a second label' of another winery, they usually envision a much lesser wine and/or throwaway product nobody else wanted. That logic needs to be thrown away when you are working with great wineries with high standards. In cases like this, their second labels can exceed the best efforts of many other wineries. Jonata and The Hilt are partner wineries run by the same wine team in Santa Barbara; Jonata based in Ballard Canyon with a focus on primarily Bordeaux varietal red wine, and The Hilt in the Santa Rita Hills Valley which focuses on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Both wineries produce iconic, signature wines that exemplify the distinctive characteristics of their microclimates. Neither label has an 'everyday' wine lineup, but both work with enough vineyards tin recent years to have a decent amount of juice from their younger vineyards or not making the final blends that don't quite reach those lofty standards. Instead of selling that juice off to someone else in bulk, they chose to keep it for themselves and start making their own second label. Though it says Santa Barbara on the label, the vast majority of the fruit comes from their cool coastal Santa Rita Hills Valley vineyards, which brings a racy character to all elements of the wine. Bright cherry and dried raspberry fruit to the nose with a touch tart cranberry, hinting at sweet fruit but countered with almost salty sea spray. The palate is deliciously energetic with a little darker fruit and fine dusty tannins to lend the berry tones some hints of pepperiness. This is a Pinot Noir with a 'signature' character from one of the cooler growing areas in California, and you don't have to pay up to enjoy it!
 With things returning to the normal routine (schools back in session, construction done on the Hydraulic Road roundabout) we wanted to feature a really tasty 'everyday' white wine. We also wanted to bring attention to a label change/rebranding of a long time store favorite. Under the label of Alain de la Treille this has been a source of great value for many vintages out of the Loire. Same source, same juice, and most importantly same quality for the price, just new appearance on the outside. Classic Chenin Blanc aroma of juicy pear and baked apple with a hint of honeycomb that always seems to signal the uniqueness of Vouvray. Nothing intensive, but in balance and completely pleasant. The palate is equally juicy, loaded with pear fruit in a creamy, off-dry sort of fruitiness, but with plenty of tingly acidity that brings a pear skin type dry note to the finish that feels more persistent with each sip. Completely enjoyable pop-and-pour wine for any occasion and any season.
 Hoping to inject a little bit of sunshine into what will likely be a dreary and rainy couple of days in Central Virginia with this Insider's Pick. At least the roundabout is done on Hydraulic Road now so it will be MUCH easier to get to us this week. Greco is one of the noble grapes of Campania as well as much of the southern third of the Italian boot. The grape reaches its undisputed heights of quality in the mountains above Naples with Greco di Tufo, influenced by the cooling climate and volcanic soils. Greco has a natural richness and a somewhat floral note that can come across almost Viognier-like in warmer areas, but the wines of Greco di Tufo carry a pronounced zing and vibrancy that really set them apart. This is a great value introduction to the region, as are all the wines in the Colline del Sole lineup, showing off a nose of peach and white flowers that gets prettier the longer the wine is open, as well as the lime and citrus notes in the background. The mouthfeel is juicy and full for the price point but also drier and more mineral driven than the aromas would let on, bringing a long nervy finish with lots of lime zest and pithy fruit skin. A fun and quenching wine on its own and a great match with all sorts of medium to full bodied Mediterranean seafood or white meat dishes.
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The Best of the Best.We offering free tastings on these wines in the store every Thursday and Friday, and a 10% discount off the retail price through the duration of the day. Come on by and give them a try! Archives
October 2024
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